Bittersweet Farewells

 

Dr. Bishop and Dr. I. in front of Afshar Hospital

 We have arrived at the time we anticipate, but dread......bidding farewell to Afghanistan, Kabul, Afshar Hospital and a host of wonderful people.

 *    We've grown to love the people.  Their hospitality is unsurpassed.....always offering a cup of tea; a smile upon greeting, with hugs and kisses, depending on your genders; a place around the 'table.'  The doctors Jon has grown to know and love are a bright star in the future of Afghanistan. He feels good about the progress he has been able to make on the 42 items Dr. Fader left him last July.

A policeman who lost his legs
to an IED.

Zohra was one of my English students before becoming
a friend and seamstress for me.

One of the tasks he's pursued is partnering the residency  with other existing programs to provide our residents with a more varied experience in their training.  Jon has traveled to many hospitals, in particular, assessing and proposing ways to work together for the good of all.  The Red Cross Orthopedic Center is amazing.....creating and producing prosthesis and wheelchairs for men who have been injured.

Korean food lovingly prepared for friends

I have not gotten to knowAfghan women as well as Jon has the men...language being a huge barrier, and then the context takes time..time to gain trust.  I have grown to know and admire the Expat women to a greater degree, also  The
people who leave the comforts of home to come to this challenging land have got to be a breed-of-their-own! Most of the 'outsiders' we know are with NGO's....Non Governmental Organizations which have been here working to rebuild Afghanistan, not just roads and buildings, but businesses, agencies, agriculture, medicine, leadership training, etc.  It is exciting to witness!  Our mere 8 months of residence (minus my 3 at home) is nothing in comparison.  I often ask myself how I would feel about being here for years?!  Somehow, I can see a shift takes place within....a paradigm shift, viewing and valuing ourselves differently  in relationship to God, others and our environment.  At least, I think that's what happens.  We've experienced some of that with every transplant into another culture.

* The landscape has grown on us.....the craggy, formidable mountains surrounding Kabul,

the roses that break through the hardest ground to provide a delicate layer of beauty.  We hear of  the promise of Spring bringing bloom to valleys beyond us.... canvasses of wild tulips and poppies  where nothing but brown earth and rock prevail the rest of the year....amazing!  The bright blue skies these winter days have brightened our spirits in this snowiest of winters. 

*The Afghan culture and traditions interest us....their history is fascinating.  Afghanistan, being part of the southern route of The Silk Road, benefited from the exchange of goods and culture that traveled from China to Turkey, and south to India and Northern Africa.  The tribes established today in Afghanistan reflect these peoples of afar....Mongolia & Tajikistan to name two.   Clothing can range from the simple Burka and Shalwar Kameez to the festive traditional dress.  Headgear is especially intruiging, wrapping cloth in many ways to circle and cover the head...both men and women.  I feel a part of History here!

Today (Wednesday) Afshar Hospital bade farewell to "Dr. Jon and Marita,"  giving us gifts of words of appreciation as well as some beautiful items.  They had Jon put on his vest, his Pashkul hat, scarf and slippers.  I was given a necklace with the Afghan stone, Lapis.  And they presented us with an Afghan carpet and wall hanging.  So, we're set for momentos.  I had not gotten into that much, and it's a good thing!  More importantly were the many hugs Jon received and the personal messages, even from women staff.  I see that the people realize Jon loves them and wants the best for them.  And they return it .  Fancy pastries were served with tea and chai. The reins are ready to be handed over to Dr. Bill, whenever their visas are approved.  They've been waiting in Dubai nearly a week.  We hope to see them
tomorrow between flights.....that would be ideal.  We leave the house tomorrow at 5:30 am to go thru the frisking, stamping, lining up thing and be on the plane which leaves at 8.  Our Emirates plane leaves for Bangkok around midnight.......and a whole 'nother experience.  Stay tuned .


There are some things we will not miss all that much!

* Driving habits that turn your hair and knuckles white!
*Having to cover much of myself with cloth, regardless of the temperature.
*The dust that swirls and settles into every pore of your body.
*Washing every raw thing we eat in iodine first (Unless it is peeled or boiled).
*Lack of central heating in buildings, especially in this -C winter!
*The undependable supply of electricity...here a minute ago..gone for hours.
*The tendency for clothes to change color in the washing machine....to a neutral grey tinge.
*The swinging temperature of ovens.....hoping the food co-operates with the median temp!
*The need to never put TP in the toilet.
*ANSO ALERTS that too frequently tell us to stay home...sometimes for days.
* The smell of garbage rotting and the sight of dumpsters emptied by people and animals  rummaging.

How can we not fall in love with Afghanistan when we see the same moon that reflects the light over all creation?  Are we all that far away?  Are we all that different? Some are born with higher privilege, Some wait for their fair share.  Who is the better man/woman ?  May we think again about our  place in life, our power  and how we use it, and how our prayers can make a difference. . . Salaam

Valentines in Dubai

     We are together again!  After 37 hours in transit.....3 planes and 2 layovers......Marita arrived as Valentine's Day ended in Dubai.  This is the longest separation we have had, over two months.  Jon flew to Dubai earlier in the evening, checked into the hotel, took a hot shower in a warm room (luxuries rarely felt in Kabul) and got my phone call rather soon.
   
My new hip got tired of the narrow airplane seats.  The British Air 747 provided a 'grand entrance' as those of us who couldn't climb up the portable stairs to the entrance got a 'skyride.'  You've seen truckbeds that are raised up to the plane's door, delivering food, etc.?  Well, it's not always food and supplies!  Sometimes it's Special Assistance giving rides to 'special' folk.  In fact, I recommend getting yourself a cane and a limp and getting on the fast-track through the airport lines!  Stock up on cash and let them do the driving. I 'tipped' my way through the airport!  Even got a side-trip to Starbucks in Seattle!  And, guess whose music was on the airwaves in the Seattle airport?  Our boy, Matt, and the Hey Marseilles band!!!  He had reminded me that I might keep my ears open for his music.  What a treat to feel him there as I was taking off.
   
 I have not flown so far by myself before.  Jon always tends to the details....now I needed to!
Another benefit to the wheelchair ride was that the 'pusher' knew where we were going!  I didn't have to wander and wonder if I had it right.  The only 'snag' was at London Heathrow where they seemed to have too many clients and too much airport for the number of available assistants.  A few of us waited together, or reunited at later points, as we were dumped in temporary waiting nooks a number of times.  My original  3 hours shrank considerably before I arrived at the bus area for the 'lift' to the 747..... we had 'climbed' into another 747 in Australia in 1999, which seemed strange in this age of ease and convenience.  Do you know how high a 747 is?

       I was ever so grateful to lie horizontal, finally!  Bed never felt so good....and my first 'dunking bath' since last year before Afghanistan!  Luxury!  We are intent on spending two days here in Dubai, resting and warming up.....mostly Jon, that is.  At breakfast, Jon bit into his omelet and thought someone had lost a piece of their tooth!  Guess whose it was?!  His!   Fortunately a friend from Kabul was here visiting the dentist today and so Jon called same dentist and got an appt. for 2:30.  It is now 6:10 and they have finished replacing the huge filling and giving him a temporary crown.  We are most grateful that this happened here where it could be treated....no dentist in Kabul.  Divine timing?!  Now we shall hail a taxi and go to the Dubai Mall.  The plan is to eat at TGIF's and watch the Dancing Fountains from our table at the window.  I'll let you know how it went..........

LATER:

What a fantastic program the largest musical water fountains in the world can put out!!!   Whitney Houston singing  "I Will Always Love You" began the show, as it had before her untimely death.

 
 
 Chocoholics are thriving in Dubai!!
Jon ordered the mini-samples of various flavors of
pudding.....they are smaller than they look!!  I helped save him from ALL of the calories....good of me, huh?

Jon only took 200 photos this evening at the Mall ....before, during and after dinner.  I can only show you a sampling.  Wish we could send the music, too.


A New Day......the 16th.

       We decided breakfast would be found at the City Centre Mall, a stones-throw from the hotel.  Doughnut holes from Dunkin' Doughnuts got Jon's attention first, but then we moved on to PAUL, A PATTISSERIE.....a nice, upscale bakery shop.   We did find eggs and fruit as well as the delectables seen in front of Jon.  I don't see Starbucks making beautiful designs on their lattes!!

.    We have done some shopping...at Woolworths, Birkenstocks, and Carefores....g  This afternoon we head for the Souks....gold, spice, textile.  This COULD be serious shopping!  Alas, not to be......we go to see the Old Town.  Dubai is not a very old town, so I will have to do some  research about this 'Old' town. 

Dubai is reknowned for it's massive Gold Souks. They are in every mall, elaborate and distinctive.
As we walked down the alleys of shops in the Gold Souk, hawkers from the stores would come quite close and ply their wares, suggesting you need their items.  It gets annoying unless you have a sense of humor about it....which Jon could muster up better than I.

  From the wide aisles of the Gold Souk, we found ourselves in very narrow alleys of the Spice Souk.

We could smell it coming!  I accepted one young man's invitation to have a seat in his shop, being tired, and then fell to figuring out what I might buy.

The vanilla pods looked, and smelled great, so I thought I'd buy a few.  His idea of a few was larger than mine.  

They wrap and bag it quickly, so I was warning him that I hadn't said 'yes', yet.......when the price became known.......his 'low' price (including some cinnamon sticks) was over $100.!!!!  Our consequent  bargaining was not going very well, so I rose to leave....Jon, too....then.he came down in price quickly, but I was out of interest and patience, so even his last offer of $10.  was behind me.  If he had started closer to it, I might have hung in there.

 As we emerged from the Old Town, the  bustling waterfront  on the Dubai Creek offered itself in the form of water taxis, called 'abras.'  They are numerous and used to get people from one part of the Old Town to the other.  We had a round trip in mind, since our hotel was on the side we were already on......but, before we knew it, an enterprising man had sold us an hour's trip made for two!!!  Actually, it felt good to putt up the river and back without the hustle and bustle of a group.

As you can see, the modern skyscrapers stand in contrast to the wooden boats wtih which commerce is still  conducted.....lining the banks of the 'creek.'
Some looked lived-on as washed clothes hung from lines, or over the rails.  Huge stores of goods were being onloaded and offloaded at certain points along the wharves.  It was good to see the old way of transport still being used.....not some container barge plying the waters.

    Our last evening of R&R found us at the Mall attending the Mission Impossible movie.....filmed in Dubai,  by in large.  I dozed the usual amount, but still saw more blood and gore than my gentle spirit wanted.

Our last photo is from our balcony....of the  Burj Khalifa....the tallest building in the world.  Here you can see the surrounding skyscrapers and how far short they fall !

Jon has rearranged weight in the suitcases and duffle bags.  I'm beginning to realize that tomorrow I will be living in a very cold house and snow is to be falling for the next three days.  Walking on ice, which is everywhere may be my next challenge to keeping the hip in place.  At least we have each other now!  And that's worth everything!!

Security Alert...Mark l:40-45

“Jesus could no longer enter a town openly...”  (v. 45 NIV)

Jesus had a security issue.

Here, we talk a lot about security.  It is part of our orientation upon entering the country.  We discuss it at team meetings.  Our phones send us security updates.  We receive security alerts from the US embassy through the internet, we depend on our Afghan friends to keep us informed.

Security issues abound:

To have a doctor or technician take night call from home for the hospital just doesn’t work.  Too dark, too far out from the city, inadequate safe transportation...concern for security.

                                                                                                  Women rarely go out after sundown...security risk.   And even in the day they are discretely covered to show only face and hands, some totally hidden in burkas...to keep them secure from the lustful gaze and lewd comments of men.  Of course, with such attire, men are also more secure from the temptation of the eyes.

Afghans that work with foreigners - my driver, our faculty and doctors in training - are at risk because they work with me.   One day our pediatrician phoned an Afghan colleague, who happened to be traveling in a taxi sitting next to a Talib.  The doctor immediately turned off the phone, fearing  the Talib had overheard an English speaker calling...security issue.  “Are you trying to get me killed?”  he later asked my friend, who was unaware of his circumstance at the time.

                                                                                                        One faculty member works in a nearby District Hospital.  A hospital employee accused him of being a  foreign spy.  Certainly, a potentially dangerous, if not fatal, rumor to spread.    Our female residents are not allowed by their husbands to train in that hospital...security issues.

Another colleague has been invited to be a hospital administrator in his home district.  Everyone tells me it is a security risk.  He says “No problem; it is in the city.”  But, he does not visit his family home just a half hour further west. “A lovely place with over 120 fruit trees.” He tells me. “I have not been able to go there for a couple years.” ....security issues.

We gather at times in small fellowship groups, cautiously, changing our pattern of meetings.  Ignoring Afghan custom,      we do not remove our shoes in the room,  ready to leave quickly on command.  Cars are always parked “heading out”, ready to exit the compound urgently if needed.  No photos at those gatherings...security issues.

“Jesus [was] no longer able to move freely in and out of the city...”  (v. 45 Message) He had a  security problem.

Actually, it was a kind of reverse security issue.  Although he was cautious  (“Don’t tell this to anyone” v.43), it was not because of threat or out of fear, but rather due to his compassion and willingness.   (“Filled with compassion, Jesus reached out and touched the man. ‘I am willing,‘ he said, ‘Be clean’”   v.41 NIV).  In fact, he broke the rules of both personal and religious security (Leviticus 15:51, context Leviticus chapters 11-15),  to reach out and touch this untouchable.  He offered security to another at the risk of losing his own.

Alberto Cairo, director of the International Red Cross Orthopedic Center in Kabul, tells of his experience 21 years ago that prompted the reopening of that facility after it had been closed for security reasons when the Mujahldeen took over Afghanistan. (Ted Talks: www.ted.com/talks/alberto_cairo_there_are_no_scraps_of_men.html)  

He first saw Mahmoud as the dust settled after the explosion of a bomb “not far from my car - well far enough..,” as he puts it.   Mahmoud was in a wheel chair,in the middle of the then immediately abandoned street.  His young son was anxiously pushing from behind while  Mahmoud frantically stroked one wheel of his chair with his single remaining arm. Both legs and one arm had been previously amputated following an earlier injury.  Alberto, out of foolish compassion, felt no option but to tell this man to come to the closed Orthopedic Center and get fitted for a prosthesis the next day. He had no idea how that locked facility could meet the man’s needs.  But, as the story has unfolded since, “in that lonely place... people still [come] to him from everywhere” (ref. Mark 1:45).  In fact, more than 7000 new amputees every year have been fitted with limbs...and society...since then.

Last Summer, when I first met Alberto, his sharp mind, enthusiastic vision, and quick wit  were exceeded only by his obvious compassion.  “This is a rehabilitation center,” he said.  “We do not accept acute injuries.  We are not a trauma hospital”  But, that morning he had admitted a man - shot through the neck a few days before - unable to move from the neck down, left quadriplegic.  He had been seen at five hospitals and refused care at all five.   “What else can you do?”  Alberto sighed, explaining his decision to set aside his usual admission policy.

“Filled with compassion, Jesus reached out ... and touched...I am willing..,” he said.

Oh, the willingness of God With Us to breech security on my behalf  (John 11:7, 8, 16; Phillipians 2:6-11) that I might be clean before the High Priest, the Holy One, the Creator on the throne who makes all things new (Rev 21).   He secures the neighborhood.   

‘Look! Look! God has moved into the neighborhood, making his home with men and women! They're his people, he's their God. He'll wipe every tear from their eyes. Death is gone for good—tears gone, crying gone, pain gone..."  (Rev 21:4 Message)

 Security issues...gone.